Amaranth
Amaranth is a Mexican superfood, but during the colonial period, it was banned and on the verge of extinction.
The amaranth was a part of the Mexica diet and rituals and was banned for a long time.
Amaranth is one of the most beautiful purple flowers in our country, and it is used to make the famous “alegrías” (a type of candy), atole (a traditional hot drink), fresh water, and other traditional dishes. Its scientific name is Amaranthus, derived from the Greek word “arnárantos,” and in Nahuatl, it is called “huahtli,” which means “the smallest life-giving particle.”
This plant has been cultivated and consumed in Mexico for thousands of years. Seeds of a species of the plant have been found in the Coxcatlán cave in Tehuacán, Puebla, dating back six thousand five hundred years. Since 2017, October 15th has been celebrated as National Amaranth Day in Mexico. For the Mexicas, amaranth was as important as beans and maize, and even the Mexica ruler Moctezuma received nearly four thousand tons of it as tribute from other peoples each year.
However, the plabt was a prohibited product during the colonial era, largely because the Mexicas created figures of their deities using ground amaranth seeds, mixed with agave honey, and called it “tzoalli.”
Research suggests that the Aztec Empire demanded tribute from its subject peoples in the form of “huautli,” the amaranth plant, from which seeds were extracted, roasted, and transformed. Although amaranth was used in various ways, one of the surviving and most popular methods was to mix amaranth with agave honey to create animal and even deity figures.
It is said that the Mexicas associated the plant with Huitzilopochtli, so during festivals dedicated to this god, figures were made in his likeness, and these figures were consumed as if partaking of the deity himself.
It is also believed that this was a creative way to personify and sanctify various deities, which were later consumed in various rituals. Some of the deities given form included Tezcatlipoca, Quetzalcóatl, Tláloc, Chalchiuhtlicue, Coatlicue, Xiuhtecuhtli, Chicomecóatl, Matlalcueye, Iztactépetl, and Opuchtli.
These figures were made using the same technique used to make amaranth candies like “alegrías.” However, like many other practices, this did not sit well with the Spanish, who then banned the cultivation and consumption of amaranth, putting it at risk of disappearing.
As we know, the process of evangelization for the Europeans was complex because many religious and liturgical customs of indigenous peoples did not align with the Western vision. Additionally, many practices were considered incompatible with the Catholic religion.
According to accounts from Bernal Díaz del Castillo, when Hernán Cortés discovered the ceremonial use of amaranth seeds, he immediately banned their consumption, as he believed it sacrilegious to “eat” their god.
This prohibition caused amaranth production to decline for several centuries, leading to its abandonment in much of the national territory and pushing it to the brink of extinction. Fortunately, amaranth’s natural qualities, which allow it to adapt to virtually any climate and terrain condition, helped it survive despite the ban.
Thanks to the natural virtues of amaranth, today we can consume one of the foods with the highest amount of proteins, vitamins, and minerals, making it a superfood. In fact, NASA scientists chose amaranth as part of the diet for astronauts traveling to the International Space Station because it is lightweight, versatile, and highly nutritious.
Furthermore, amaranth and the “alegría” from Tulyehualco, Xochimilco, were declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Mexico City in 2016. In this town in Mexico City, the tradition of cultivating amaranth in “chinampas,” an ancient agricultural system, is preserved.
Additionally, Tulyehualco claims the designation of origin for amaranth, as this town in the capital, along with some areas in Morelos, continued to cultivate it despite the restrictions of the colonial period.
