Island of the Dolls
Xochimilco, a UNESCO World Heritage site in southern Mexico City, is famous for its labyrinth of canals, colorful trajineras, and floating gardens. But among the lush vegetation and serene waterways lies one of the capital’s eeriest and most fascinating places: La Isla de las Muñecas, or The Island of the Dolls.
This surreal site is home to nearly 3,500 dolls hanging from trees and scattered across the vegetation. Over the years, their bodies have been deformed by humidity, dirt, and time. The result is a haunting spectacle where dolls without eyes, with missing limbs, or burned faces hang motionless, watching visitors float by.
Unlike other tourist attractions, these dolls were not placed there for entertainment. Instead, their presence is tied to a chilling legend that has transformed the island into a cult site for ghost stories and urban myths.
The story of Don Julián and the Spirit of the Drowned Girl
The legend begins in the 1950s with Don Julián Santana, a local farmer and canal caretaker. According to neighbors, Julián discovered the body of a young girl who had drowned near his home. Shortly after, he claimed to feel her presence and feared her spirit haunted the area.
To protect himself and appease the spirit, he began hanging dolls on the trees surrounding his home. Over time, he collected thousands of discarded dolls, rescuing them from garbage heaps, canals, and neighbors’ offerings. For Julián, each doll was a way to honor and calm the wandering souls of those who had drowned in the canals.
But his obsession grew darker. Julián claimed the dolls began whispering, laughing, and even crying at night. Visitors described the figures as unsettling, with some appearing strangled or nailed to walls, their glassy eyes seeming to follow anyone who passed.
The legend took a tragic turn in 2001 when Don Julián was found drowned in the same spot where he had once discovered the girl. Since then, visitors whisper that his spirit lingers on the island, guarding his macabre sanctuary.
Urban myths and paranormal encounters
After Julián’s death, the island became a magnet for ghost stories. Locals and tourists alike tell tales of visitors who mocked the dolls only to face accidents or even death afterward. Others claim that touching the dolls brings bad luck or triggers unexplained events.
Despite the fear, or perhaps because of it, visitors continue to add their own dolls to the collection. Each new figure adds to the surreal and unsettling atmosphere, blending tragedy and devotion with art and folklore.
Even celebrities have fallen under the island’s spell. Lady Gaga reportedly rented a trajinera to film her music video “The Dead Dance,” directed by Tim Burton, on the island. Whether for art or thrill, the appeal of La Isla de las Muñecas is undeniable.
How much does it cost to visit the Island of the Dolls?
Beyond the legends, travelers quickly discover another reality: the visit comes with a price tag. If you’re planning a trip, here’s what you need to know:
The Trajinera Ride
The only way to reach the island is by trajinera, the traditional flat-bottomed boat of Xochimilco. Contrary to popular belief, the fare is not charged per person but per boat.
- Official rate: $750 pesos per hour (set by the Xochimilco authorities).
- Capacity: Up to 18 people per boat.
Because the island is in a remote part of the canals, a round trip takes between 3.5 to 5 hours. That means the minimum cost of the trajinera is about $2,625 pesos.
The entrance fee
Once you arrive, there is a second cost: the entrance to the island.
- Price: $70 pesos per person.
- Purpose: This fee is collected by the family that maintains the island and helps preserve its eerie charm.
Total Example Cost
If you travel in a group of 10 people, the breakdown looks like this:
- Trajinera: $2,625 pesos
- Entrance fees: $700 pesos (10 x $70)
- Total: $3,325 pesos, or roughly $332.50 pesos per person.
When shared among friends, the experience becomes both affordable and unforgettable.
Why you should visit
La Isla de las Muñecas is not for the faint of heart. It is a place where Mexican folklore, tragedy, and mystery intertwine. The silence of the canals, the weight of the legends, and the sight of thousands of lifeless eyes staring from the trees make it one of the most unique experiences in Mexico City.
Whether you go seeking paranormal thrills, cultural history, or simply a surreal adventure, visiting this island forces you to confront questions about life, death, and the stories we tell ourselves to explain the unexplainable.
For some, it is a haunting nightmare. For others, it is a masterpiece of folk art. For all, it is unforgettable.
